Saint Paul de Vence & Surrounds
Known around the world for its perfume history, this region has much more than olfactory discoveries in its many romantic hilltop towns. Only a short drive away from the glittering coast of the French Riviera, it is well worth a detour to dip your toes into provençal life.
Dress
Do
We kickstarted our discovery of the area with a visit to Tourettes sur Loup. The streets were charming and tranquil with an incredible view over the valley. We felt like locals wandering along its cobbles peeking into courtyards and down alleys.
Valbonne is another beautifully authentic village. Be sure to visit on the first Sunday of every month. The streets will be deserted but as you wander down into the heart of the old town you will begin to hear the distant hum of people.
When you reach the main square, Place des Arcades, you will be greeted with the most gorgeous antiques market heaving with excited shoppers (locals and foreigners alike!). If only we could ship it all back home to Australia! Be sure to have lunch in one of the cafes under the arches around the square, perfect for people watching.
Saint Paul de Vence, what can I say? It really deserves its own post because it is one of those places that has a magic that must be experienced to be believed. This medieval town sits majestically above the many valleys of the Alpes- Maritime and is littered with artisan stores and art galleries.
As you enter the city walls (unfortunately surrounded by many tourists even when we visited in October), you catch glimpses of everyday life here. Men playing pétanque under the shade of the plane trees as families sit watching on at Café de la Place.
Although there are museums, art galleries (Picasso did live and work here) and fining dining restaurants to visit, one of the most magical things to do in Saint Paul de Vence, is simply to meander and get lost. Within its ramparts there is a loop around the village, so you will never get too lost.
Along the streets there are churches to discover (also a cool escape from the Provençal sun) and the incredible Fontaine de Saint Paul de Vence. Take a walk along the medieval ramparts for incredible views of the surrounding valleys and the cemetiere.
Grasse was the fourth and final stop on our tour of the hills. It is the international home of perfume with the labor intensive production of Jasmine and other rare scents such as Lavender and Rose. It is also renowned for producing ‘les nez’ the specialists that study for many years to do undoubtedly the most incredible job in the world, create perfumes!
You can learn all about the history of perfume and more at the Musée International de la Perfumerie. A visit to Fragonard, one of the famous perfume houses in Grasse, is a must. You will gain an insight into all the behind-the-scenes of the traditional ‘parfumeries’. The surrounds are also filled with hikes and water activities which we would love to come back and experience!
Stay
We stayed at l’Escale du Ciel on the edge of the charismatic town of le Bar sue Loup. The town is quiet but the central location cannot be beaten for discovering the area. The B&B is truly one of our favourite stays. The interiors are beautiful yet practical, the views are breathtaking, the pool is perfection, the food is delicious and the host, Judith is wonderful. Take a look at my previous post, it really was the perfect stay!
Taste
This area has many amazing places to eat. But, after our enormous, delicious French breakfasts at l’Escale du Ciel and being completely engrossed in our daily explorations, we often visited a local boulangerie, took our delightful finds home and enjoyed them over a glass of Rosé as we watched the sun set. It truly was the perfect way to end our days and trip to this beautiful region.
xx Carla, The Strawberry Story